Cartier Tank Must, Orange Dial

A striking and highly unusual Cartier Tank Must manual wind watch, featuring an exceptionally rare original orange lacquer dial housed in the iconic vermeil Tank case. Bold, elegant and unmistakably Cartier, this is one of the more distinctive Must de Cartier variations produced during the late 1970s and 1980s, a period now celebrated for some of the brand’s most creative dial designs.

The rich burnt orange dial changes beautifully depending on the light, shifting between deep amber and vibrant orange tones, perfectly complemented by the warm gold vermeil case and classic brown lizard leather strap. Unlike the more commonly seen black, ivory or burgundy examples, this orange dial configuration is seldom encountered and gives the watch an unusually artistic and fashion-forward character while still retaining the timeless proportions of the Tank.

Powered by a manual wind movement, the watch wears beautifully on the wrist with the slim, elegant profile that made the Tank one of Cartier’s most enduring designs. The minimalist dial layout, signed “must de Cartier” with the classic Cartier logo at 6 o’clock, keeps the focus entirely on the colour and form.

An incredibly collectible and characterful vintage Cartier, equally suited to a seasoned collector or someone looking for a genuinely different dress watch with strong design presence.

Details

• Cartier Tank Must

• Reference: 002172

• Manual wind movement

• Rare original orange lacquer dial

• Vermeil case (925 silver with gold plating)

• Original Cartier Paris caseback engravings

• Brown lizard leather strap

• Swiss made

• Circa 1980s

• Classic rectangular Tank case

Condition

Very good vintage condition overall. The dial retains a beautiful rich colour with light signs of age visible under close inspection, adding to the character of the piece. The case shows honest wear consistent with age, and the watch presents exceptionally well on the wrist. The strap remains in good wearable condition.

This watch has been checked and tested prior to sale and is covered by our comprehensive 12-month mechanical warranty. As with every piece we sell, authenticity is fully guaranteed for complete peace of mind.